New Delhi: India has tightened chemical safety norms in the footwear sector, with the Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) issuing voluntary standards to detect hazardous substances in footwear materials. The move signals a broader effort by the world’s second-largest footwear maker to align with global benchmarks while strengthening consumer protection.
According to a BIS notification, reviewed by Mint, the new norms prescribe test methods to measure the presence of dimethylformamide (DMF) and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), respectively. Both substances are commonly used in manufacturing and can pose health risks with prolonged exposure.
DMF is widely used as a solvent in the production of polyurethane-based synthetic leather and components. It can be absorbed through the skin and has been linked to liver toxicity. PAHs are typically found in rubber and plastic parts such as soles, and some compounds in this group are known to cause cancer.
Trade experts said that the notification is part of a wider effort to harmonize Indian standards with global regulations, particularly in export markets such as the European Union (EU) where limits on such chemicals are stringent.
“The absence of standardized testing protocols has often been cited as a barrier for Indian exporters, as compliance requirements differ across jurisdictions,” said Abhash Kumar, trade economist.
Queries sent to BIS on Monday remained unanswered till press time.
Earlier, the footwear industry did not have a uniform method to test hazardous substances such as DMF and PAHs, leading to variations in results across laboratories. By aligning with the norms of the Geneva-based International Organization for Standardization (ISO), BIS has now introduced standardized testing protocols, which manufacturers may need to adopt to ensure consistency and global comparability of test results.
With BIS rolling out new norms, manufacturers will now need to follow uniform ISO-based testing protocols, using defined methods for sample preparation, chemical extraction, and analysis, including techniques such as gas chromatography-mass spectrometry.
Globally, regulations such as the EU’s Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) on hazardous substances in products with prolonged skin contact. For instance, several PAHs are restricted to very low concentrations, typically around 1 mg/kg, while solvents like DMF are also tightly controlled.
The government’s move is significant for India’s $26 billion footwear market. It also assumes importance as the government, which rose to $2.55 billion in FY25 from $2.49 billion in FY24.
As per the Council for Leather Exports, India is the second-largest producer of footwear after China, accounting for 11.63% of global production of 17.7 billion pairs. India produces over 2 billion pairs of footwear annually, including 909 million pairs of leather footwear, 100 million pairs of leather shoe uppers, and 1.056 billion pairs of non-leather footwear. Nearly 95% of this production is consumed domestically.
Experts said the new norms will raise domestic footwear quality, bolster manufacturing, and enable more firms, particularly non-exporters, to enter export markets.
“Most of the exports of footwear to global markets are already compliant with international standards. So, for them, it will not bring major changes, but it will help improve product quality,” said Ajay Sharma, secretary of the Punjab Leather Federation, an industry body representing leather and footwear manufacturers in Punjab.
“These substances can cause skin irritation and pose higher risks for children. By putting in place stricter norms, the government has ensured consumer safety and better quality of products,” he said.
Doctors say that footwear remains a key category of concern due to the wide range of materials and chemicals involved in its manufacturing.
“Footwear, which combines materials such as leather, rubber, plastics, foams, adhesives and dyes, can potentially contain a range of hazardous substances beyond DMF and PAHs. These include Chromium VI in leather, carcinogenic amines released from certain azo dyes, phthalates used in plastics, formaldehyde in finishes, and heavy metals such as lead and cadmium in pigments and accessories,” said Dr. Anand Vishal, professor in the department of medicine at Atal Bihari Vajpayee Institute of Medical Sciences and Dr. Ram Manohar Lohia Hospital, New Delhi.